Travelwise: Sustainable travel in Malaysia

Sustainable and responsible travel in Malaysia directly, or indirectly, benefits local communities throughout the country. (BBC)

When Rustam Roshandin got out of rehab, he wanted to do something with his life that would help recovering drug addicts like himself stay clean. He had no idea this desire would transform into the largest night bazaar in Kuala Lumpur.

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KL Downtown Night Market now has 600 stalls, most of which employ former addicts who completed the same rehabilitation program Roshandin went through, and more than half are owned by recovering addicts. "It gives us a reason to stay clean and sober everyday," Roshandin said.
The bazaar (open from 10 pm to 4 am) is a huge draw for tourists, he added, offering everything from local, handmade batik fabrics to street food to foot massages to five-minute haircuts. On weekends, the market invites local dancers and musicians to perform on its stage. A portion of all proceeds go to Kuala Lumpur's Pengasih rehab centre.
Socially conscious businesses like KL Downtown are giving travellers the opportunity to do some good while on vacation. The timing is great, say responsible tourism advocates, because demand for sustainable travel in Malaysia is on the rise.
"Over the last couple of years, there has definitely been an upswing," said Deborah Chan, programme manager of Wild Asia, a Malaysia-based NGO dedicated to promoting responsible tourism throughout Asia. Tour operators vouch for the increase in sustainable travel. Responsible Travel, a UK-based travel agency selling sustainable holiday packages, reports a 23 percent increase in customers buying trips to Malaysia from 2009 to 2010. "In particular we're seeing an increase in travellers opting for orangutan based holiday experiences in Malaysia - Borneo in particular," said communications manager Krissy Roe.
Locally, the award-winning tour operator Borneo Ecotours is finding the same trend. The company says that ecotourism attracts many people from Europe and the UK who want to learn about Malaysia's natural history. "You have to be careful, though," warned assistant general manager Susan Soong. "A lot of companies are into greenwashing. They are more marketing sustainability than practicing it. So it's a bit important to know who you are [buying from]."
That is part of the reason that Wild Asia hosts the Responsible Tourism Awards each year - to support businesses that practice what they preach.
This past year, one of the winners was the Frangipani Langkawi eco-resort, located in the northwestern part of the peninsula in Kedah. The resort and spa offers a luxury getaway of beach relaxation in beautiful villas with private terraces. Nearby eco-activities abound, with chances for snorkelling, rainforest treks and island hopping. Travellers can feel good about staying here, too, since the hotel's mantra is conservation. Frangipani implements a rainwater recycling system to water its sustainable gardens and uses solar panels to reduce energy use.
For travellers seeking adventure, Malaysia's stunning wildlife lends itself to many opportunities for sustainable travel. Sea turtle lovers can visit the Ma'Daerah Turtle Sanctuary in Terengganu or Malacca's Padang Kemunting Turtle Hatchery. Or, take a reforest trip and find endangered elephants at the Kuala Gandah Elephant Sanctuary or endangered guar (wild cattle) at the Seladang-Gaur Wildlife Conservation Center.
Local food enthusiasts may be more interested in agricultural tourism. Farms such as Kahang Organic Rice Eco Farm feature tours, activities and accommodations. Kahang, which produces rice, vegetables, fruits, herbs and seafood, has tours of its rice fields, prawn harvests and wild duck sanctuary. It also hosts trips for nearby mountain climbing, bamboo rafting and boat riding. Accommodations range from floating chalets amid rice fields to simply camping. If you are really committed to sustainable farming, Kahang is a great place to volunteer. Volunteers learn farming practices and work eight hours a day for a minimum of 10 days; meals are included.
It is also possible to support local communities just by shopping. In Kuala Lumpur, the Salaam Wanita eco-basket making project is a social enterprise through which local women living below the poverty line seek economic independence. The women are highly skilled in the local art of basket weaving. Interestingly enough, the beautiful baskets, boxes and totes they make are actually crafted from recycled magazines.
Even without embarking on an eco-trip, said Wild Asia, tourists can travel responsibly by merely exercising common sense. "In hotels, switch off lights and re-use linens," advises Chan. "And respecting local cultures is also a big thing. In [some] provinces it's not appropriate to dress skimpily, in a bikini for example... And if you go on a tour that brings tourists in to indigenous tribes, don't walk into someone's home without asking permission."
From shopping to eating to sleeping, almost everything you do on vacation can involve a sustainable element. For a list of socially conscious tour operators in Malaysia, visit Wild Asia's directory.

Crimea, the Ukraine’s odd beach paradise

A wild beach in Sevastopol's Balaklava bay on Ukraine's Crimea peninsula. (Yuliya Popova)

“Shrimp, sunflower seeds, baklava!” That odd beach vendor chant is the sound of summer in the Crimea, a small Ukrainian peninsula that juts into the Black Sea. The vendors make their way past sunburnt bodies occupying every inch of the coast, offering Turkish honey pastries or Russian salty shrimp as an appetizer to a sumptuous holiday of contrasts.

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The green, mountainous Crimea is a wild and fairly undiscovered beach destination in Eastern Europe. Frequented by Russian holidaymakers, the peninsula has had little influence from the West and is better known for its war history than for the long strips of pebble beach propping the rocky Crimean Mountains. In the late 19th Century, Russians fought the British, French and the Ottoman Turks from these Crimean shores, as a part of an extended conflict over the spoils of the Ottoman Empire. The winner of the three-year Crimean War depends on which country’s history books you consult, but what has prevailed is an odd blend of Russian and Turkish cultures.
From Turkey, the Crimea inherited a mild Mediterranean climate; from Russia, millions of loyal tourists who take off en masse every summer for an annual break. Although the Crimea is a part of Ukraine now, most locals continue to speak Russian and reminisce over the Soviet Union, which partly explains the annual Russian exodus.
In August there are so many sun worshipers, the beach looks like New York City’s Times Square on New Year’s Eve. With more disposable income to burn than Ukrainians, Russians drive up local accommodation and food prices, forcing Ukrainian tourists to travel in the shoulder seasons.
A typical Crimean beach scene is a crowded and lascivious affair, where food, people and water blend together. Young women, with figures that would make Venice Beach babes jealous, roll up the sides of their swimming bottoms for a better suntan, blurring the line between public and nudist beach. Most men prefer swimming briefs, no matter how unathletic their bellies look.
Crimea has dozens of lovely beach towns, but only a few offer proper tourist infrastructure. Hot water, menus in English, toilet paper and public toilets are hard to come by in many areas, so stick to larger cities, which are more likely to have Western hotels. While locals advertise rooms for rent by nailing hand written boards to random trees and lampposts, residential properties can suffer occasional water and gas shortages. For the best accommodations and dining options, the safe bets are Yalta, Novyi Svit, and Sevastopol, all within an hour and a half drive from Simferopil, the capital of the Crimea and the only city on the peninsula with an airport.
Novyi Svit
Only six kilometres from a popular resort called Sudak, the village of Novyi Svit (“New World”) sits at the foot of the lush pine peaks that nestle the bay.
Pack your hiking gear to explore its many historic trails. Previously called Paradise, Novyi Svit is famous for its vineyards and champagne, which are so good even Tsar Nicholas II, according to local legend, spent a few heady nights here in the early 1900s. He was the last Russian monarch to enjoy the Crimean holiday palaces, one of which was built in Yalta specifically for his family. Livadia Palace, a whitewashed Renaissance mansion, entertained the Romanovs until the start of World War I in 1914.
Before heading to Yalta, explore the town of Sudak, which is dominated by a magnificent 14th-century fortress. Stretching more than 30km, the ancient battlements were erected by Venetians until the Genoese took over the peninsula in 1365. The town itself is a typical Crimean mix of grey Soviet apartment houses, buzzing open-air markets and developing hotels that are best to avoid.
Stay in Prince Golitsyn hotel to enjoy a private beach and hikes into the ancient mountains. Eat at Aquatoria, a fish restaurant that pledges to serve only the same day’s catch.
Yalta
Russian royalty held the Crimea dear to their hearts, infusing it with palaces, mansions and exquisite wineries and vineyards. Later, the Soviet elite converted the royal real estate into sanatoriums and built dachas (summer houses) for their own folly.


Today, some of them serve as museums while others have been resold into private hands. The most famous of the government-run mansions, perhaps, is Yalta’s stunning, late 19th-century Livadia Palace. The elegant, palm-lined palace overlooking the sea made it into textbooks when Churchill, Stalin and Roosevelt convened here to carve up post-war Europe in 1945. Today, you can tour the rooms where they plotted, with some of the original furniture preserved. An art and photo gallery, as well as lavish courtrooms, give a good impression of Tsar Nicholas’ lifestyle.
The high life in Yalta continues today. Known as a shabby chic party capital for the young and wealthy, the town lures travellers with a glamorous yacht-lined pedestrian pier, fancy hotels and nightclubs that stay open till dawn.
Stay in Villa Elena, a luxurious five-star hotel from 1912. Eat in Khutorok La Mer for Ukrainian cuisine on the waterfront and spice up the experience with Turkish hookahs that you can smoke.
SevastopolFor the best blend of sand, pebbles and history, head to this active naval base for Russian and Ukrainian fleets. Built by the Russians in the 18th Century, the town still stirs passion about who it really belongs to. Recently, in exchange for cheaper gas, Russians extended their lease of the fleet till 2042.
The town itself does not feel Ukrainian. Whitewashed government buildings, concert halls and battleships line the horizon, and there are elaborate monuments celebrating Russian feats of war. The place has a noble feel reminiscent of the former empire.
In the west of Sevastopol, the Greek ruins of the city of Chersoneses date back to 5 BC. Apart from collecting prenatal pottery pieces (there seems to be no restriction against it), locals and tourists can enjoy a refreshing swim in the rolling, blue waves of the Black Sea -- so called for the colour of its deep waters densely populated with algae.
Stay in the waterfront Sevastopol hotel, steps away from Sevastopol’s pedestrian piers and best for watching naval parades. And eat in Kazbek, a Georgian cuisine restaurant famous for its plov (pilau rice with meat) and khachapuri (warm white sour dough with melting cheese inside).
How to
From the airport in Simferopil, hire a cab (bargaining the price down twice is a must) or get on a shuttle bus. You can also take an authentic Soviet trolley that drags through the mountains for more than two hours without an air conditioner; the 84km route is said to be the longest in the world and, perhaps, the cheapest.
To avoid Russian holidaymakers, travel in the shoulder season, which begins in late April and lasts through May. The sun will be warm enough for a healthy tan and quick water dips. Alternatively, visit the Crimea in September or October for the beauty and quiet peace of the Indian summer. Hotel prices and availability will be ample, the sea still warm and mountain trails blissfully vacated.

Tanzania’s alternative to the Serengeti

The open savannahs of the Mkata floodplain are reminiscent of the famous Serengeti plains. (Zahra Sethna)

With a major two-lane highway running through it, Mikumi National Park might be one of the only places in the world to offer views of wild animals and grassy savannahs for the price of a bus ticket. In spite of this – or perhaps because of it – Mikumi is one of the most underrated parks in Tanzania.

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“What makes Mikumi special is that it’s somewhat forgotten,” said Karen Oakes, manager of Stanley’s Kopje, a tented camp that opened in the park in 2001. “It is often overlooked by tour operators…which means it is sort of a hidden gem.”
Mikumi lies along a trade route that has connected the East African coast with huge inland lakes for hundreds of years. The taste for ivory and other exotic goods has lured traders, travellers and explorers along this corridor since the 18th Century, when caravans carried cloth and beads, copper and spices, ivory and slaves across the same plains and hills now visited by tourists.
Connected to Dar es Salaam by a well-paved road, the park can be accessed by private car, bus or safari vehicle. Daily charter flights are also available for those averse to traffic jams and long car journeys. If you do have the time to spare, the nearly five-hour drive is worth it for the views. Heading west from Dar es Salaam, the road traverses the Ruvu River, tracks along the base of the Uluguru Mountains and meanders through sisal plantations and a string of small villages.
Once inside the southern Tanzania park, the highway cannot be seen or heard, but it makes Mikumi one of the most accessible places in Tanzania to see lions, buffalo, hippopotamus, gazelles, elands, warthogs and yellow baboons (not to mention more than 400 species of birds). “It is an excellent place for Tanzanians to discover their own natural history,” said Oakes, an Australian who has worked in the park for six years.
The open savannahs of the Mkata floodplain, at the heart of the park, are reminiscent of the famous Serengeti plains and a popular feeding ground for herd animals such as elephants, giraffe, zebra and wildebeest. But with far fewer vehicles and visitors, Mikumi offers a wilder and more remote experience than the Serengeti and Ngorogoro Crater, Tanzania’s better-known parks in the north of the country.
At more than 3,000sqkm, Mikumi is the fourth largest national park in Tanzania. The area is adjacent to, and part of, the much larger natural ecosystem of Selous, one of Africa’s largest game reserves. Together, Selous and Mikumi create a protected ecosystem larger than Denmark. But even with the protected designation, animals remain vulnerable to the dangers posed by humans.
Small animals often fall prey to the speeding traffic on the highway, while larger animals face other risks. “[Poachers] get the elephants when they roam outside the park,” said Simon Kimweri, a guide with It Started in Africa Tours, who has spent 17 years living and working near the park. Pointing to a large bull elephant that has no tusks, Kimweri said, “He was lucky. Often the poachers just kill them.”
Practicalities
The luxurious Stanley’s Kopje camp is named after one of the world’s most famous explorers – the Welsh-born, American journalist and adventurer, Henry Morton Stanley. One of a handful of accommodation options within the park, the camp is made up of eight tented chalets on raised wooden platforms, offering unobstructed views of the Mkata floodplain. From the bar and restaurant area, herds of animals can be seen grazing in the distance. At night, Oakes said elephants and other wild animals regularly feed among the tents, eating the grass that grows along the rocky outcrop.
Closer to the park’s main gate is the Mikumi Wildlife Camp, a series of basic cottages with thatched roofs that provide close-up views of the animals visiting nearby watering holes. Rooms are pricey for what they offer, but the quiet and peaceful terrace facing the open plain is the perfect place for a post-safari drink.


Budget-friendly accommodations can be found along the main road in Mikumi town, located about 20km from the main park gate. Several guesthouses and roadside motels – with questionable names like Half Way House (Mikumi Main Road; 255-787-97-9678), Genesis Snake Park and Motel (Mikumi Main Road; 255-023-262-0461) and Impala Palace (Mikumi Main Road; 255-715-41-8266) – provide basic but clean lodgings for a fraction of the cost of staying in the park. A selection of lively restaurants and pubs along the main road offer a chance to catch up on football scores, chat with locals and have a cold beer with some nyama choma, the Swahili word for grilled meat.
If you are not on a package tour, you can arrange at the park entrance to have a ranger join you on your game drive. They will know where to find the animals and can save you from getting lost or driving aimlessly around the numerous tracks within the park. Be sure to bring plenty of water, snacks, a good pair of binoculars and a camera, as Mikumi is famous among photographers for getting excellent light. Most animal activity takes place when the sun is not at its peak, so aim for game drives in the early morning or late afternoon.

Mini guide to Cape Verde

Dramatic canyons and cloud-covered peaks make Cape Verde's Santo Antao an ideal hiking destination. (Olivier Cirendini/LPI)

This island nation off West Africa may seem small on a map, but it manages to cram in a variety of landscapes – from the barren expanses of the eastern islands to the wooded valleys of the western islands. Cape Verde’s culture is equally eclectic, reflecting African, Portuguese and Caribbean influences.

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See
Dramatic canyons, cloud-covered peaks and vertigo-inducing drops make Santo Antão an ideal hiking destination. One of the classic walks is up the stunning Vale do Paúl, passing through fields of sugarcane towards the pretty village of Passagem. Hotels on the island can advise on routes.
Mount Fogo is one of Cape Verde’s greatest natural landmarks – a 2,829m-high volcano rising from the floor of an ancient crater. Climbing to the peak takes around three hours. A good pair of boots is a must, and local guides can be found in the village of Portela (around £25).
Set around a moon-shaped port and ringed by barren mountains, Mindelo is Cape Verde’s most picturesque town, with its cobblestone streets and many pastel-coloured colonial buildings. Take a stroll along Rua da Libertad d’Africa, which runs into town from the harbour.
Boa Vista has some of Cape Verde’s best beaches – among them Praia da Santa Mónica in the south. Turtles also come here to lay eggs – turtle-watching tours can be arranged through the Migrante Guesthouse (evening tours from £33, Jul–Sep only).
Nine miles from Praia on the island of Santiago, Cidade Velha (‘old city’) was the first European settlement in the tropics, founded in 1462 as a stop on the Atlantic slave trade route. The ruins of a 17th-century cathedral and a grand fort recall its former status.
Eat and drink
In the port city of Mindelo, Café Lisboa is a regular hangout for musicians, intellectuals and politicians alike. Meet here for coffee in the daytime and, in the evening, its excellent caipirinhas (no telephone; Rua da Libertad d’Africa; caipirinhas £2.20).
Painted in lively primary colours, La Pergola 7 is an excellent restaurant and coffee stop at the Alliance Française (French Cultural Institute) in Mindelo. Hearty French-accented meals come at very reasonable prices (Alliance Française, Rua Santo António; mains from £4.80).
Clube Nautica, an upmarket, open-air bar restaurant by the marina on São Vicente, is a prime spot for fish – tuna is a speciality here. It is also popular with evening drinkers, with its frequent live music performances. Morna, the local variant of blues music, is a regular staple (00 238 995 57 88; fish dishes from £5.80).
With rainbow-coloured tables and spectacular views from its sunny terrace, German-owned Le Bistro 9 in São Filipe on Fogo serves Mediterranean and Cape Verdean dishes, seizing on the best local seafood (00 238 971 58 83; seafood dishes from £6).
Meaning ‘the woodpecker’, Pica Pau 10 is a lively candle-lit seafood restaurant in Mindelo, specialising in lobster and risotto dishes. The walls are decorated with football memorabilia and mementos of old Cape Verdean life (00 238 232 82 07; Rua Santo Antonio; mains from £6).
Sleep
The orange-coloured Aparthotel Holanda is an excellent value hotel in Praia. Arranged around an inner courtyard, comfortable rooms come with fans, desks and, in some cases, small balconies overlooking the streets of the lively neighbourhood outside (Rua Saude; from £28 without breakfast).
Baia Verde offers some of the best value accommodation on Santiago. Simple, attractive bungalows cluster around palm groves set back from the main beach in Tarrafal – inside there’s hot water and eccentric bunches of plastic flowers decorating the rooms (00 238 266 11 28; Tarrafal; bungalows from £30).
Dressed up in pink bougainvillea, the Hotel Savana occupies a bright yellow colonial building in Sao Filipe on the island of Fogo. Simple rooms have high ceilings and Juliet balconies, and the black volcanic rock decorations contrast sharply with the bright colour scheme (Alta Sao Pedro; from £35).
Built in the 19th century by a Jewish-Moroccan family, Migrante Guesthouse in the middle of Sal Rei has five rooms set around a courtyard. Each has darkwood floors, big soft beds and black and white photographic prints adorning the whitewashed walls (Avenida Amílcar Cabral; from £35).


A lime-green building on the seafront in Mindelo, Casa Cafe Mindelo  is a French-run guesthouse whose four rooms mix African art with contemporary décor. There’s also a café specialising in seafood. Be sure to book ahead (Rue Governador Calheiros 6; from £50).
Getting around
TACV flies between almost all inhabited islands in Cape Verde, although last-minute cancellations can occur (singles from around £40). Halcyon Air also offers internal flights. Inter-island ferries operate, with varying degrees of comfort.
When to go
Cape Verde is cooler than most of West Africa, and can be visited year-round, even during the rainy season from mid-August to mid-October. The biggest festival is Mardi Gras, celebrated with particular gusto in the town of Mindelo on São Vicente.
How to go
The main airport for Cape Verde is on the island of Sal. Thomson flies there from Gatwick (from £330) and Manchester (from £350). You can also fly to the capital, Praia, from Heathrow with TAP Portugal, via Lisbon (from £470).

Living in: Zurich

A pontoon sails down Zurich's Limmat River. (Arnd Wiegmann/Reuters)

Zurich is Switzerland’s largest city and the country’s banking and financial centre. It is also one of the most liveable cities in the world -- rarely out of the top spot in quality of life rankings -- with its entirely clean and safe streets, rich cultural life and providential location on the sparkling blue Lake Zurich.

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What is it known for?
Zurich was once considered a buttoned-up banking town, and it is still a world financial centre that attracts multinational corporations and big businesses (Google’s largest engineering office in Europe is there), but the city shed its stuffed shirt reputation long ago. It has a hip arts district, groovy nightlife and bars, and is home to Street Parade, the world’s largest techno party, which attracts nearly a million people to the shores of Lake Zurich every August.
The city sits on the north point of Lake Zurich, where it flows into the River Limmat, and in the summer residents and office workers flock to the swimming areas on the river and beaches on the lake, such as the Frauenbad Stadthausquai (for women only) and Seebad Enge. “Swimming in the deep blue waters of Lake Zurich and the river is sublime,” said Adam H Graham, an American journalist who has lived in Zurich for a year. “Few cities offer such pristine water and swimming conditions. And at night, the spots turn into bars and clubs.”
The Altstadt, or Old Town, is bisected by the river, and the tidy cobblestone streets are lined with medieval buildings and Gothic church spires. Many lead into Banhofstrasse, the main shopping street, considered the most expensive in Europe, and where banking giants UBS and Credit Suisse have their headquarters.
Where do you want to live?
Zurich has 12 kreis, or districts, many of which contain multiple neighbourhoods. Once the city’s industrial zone, Zurich West in Kreis 5 attracts the city’s hip denizens with its cutting-edge design stores, art galleries, nightclubs and burgeoning culinary scene, as well as the 36-floor Prime Tower, the tallest in Switzerland, and new tram lines. Farther away from the centre and down the lakeshore, Wollishofen in Kreis 2 and on the other shore, Seefeld in Kreis 8 and Zurichberg in Kreis 7, are very popular. “Wollishofen and Seefeld are beautiful residential areas close to Lake Zurich, while Zurichberg is high above the city in woodlands with great views of the lake and the Alps,” said Casha Frigo Schmidiger of Engel and Völkers estate agents. The large villas in Zumikon and Küsnacht on the northeast Gold Coast of Lake Zurich are popular with wealthy buyers, and south of the lake, the cantons (states) of Zug and Schwyz have great transport connections to Zurich.
New construction is going on in the north and western part of Zurich and high property prices in the rest of city mean people look there for value. Near the main train station, an entire new development called Europaallee is set to be completed by 2019, with residential towers, hotels, restaurants, retail and offices. In Kreis 3, the areas around Idaplatz and Goldbrunnenplatz have become increasingly popular. “This is the sweet spot,” said Graham of these areas. “The creative classes ride their bikes to work, shop for organic food in Migros and have great views of Uetliberg, the local mountain.”
Side trips
Unsurprisingly, many Zurichers spend their weekends in the mountains. “Sometimes it seems like every Swiss person has a family chalet in their home canton,” said Graham. “But if you really want to find Swiss weekenders, go to the supermarkets just across the French or German borders. They’re full of Zurichers stocking up on discount groceries.” In the winter, many ski in the canton of Graübunden, in such towns as Leinzerheide, about an hour and a half away, and in the upper and lower Engadine Valley in villages such as St Moritz and Scuol.
Zurich’s central Europe location means France, Germany and Austria are as close as an hour away by train or car, Italy not that much more, and London is less than a two-hour flight. It is roughly 10 hours to Beijing and eight hours to New York.

Practical info
Downtown Zurich has limited inventory and property prices are very high in and around the city. “The demand for residential property is still high and values are up to eight percent higher than last year,” explained Schmidiger. “This is because of the low interest rates and the economic and fiscal state of Switzerland as compared to the surrounding EU countries.” The average house price in Zurich is 1.8 to 3 million francs, while a house in a prime location goes for anywhere from 5 to 15 million francs. Flat prices are around 7,000 to 10,000 francs per square metre, while average rent for a four-room flat is around 2,000 francs a month.
“The quality of life is really better here,” said Graham. “The city functions über-efficiently, making it easy, but not cheap, to get things done.”
Further information
The Local: English-language countrywide news
Newly Swissed: lifestyle blog covering art, design, food and travel in Switzerland
Two Fools in Zurich: ex-pat blog about life in the city, plus restaurant and nightlife recommendations

The perfect trip: Costa Rica

The white-sand beach at Playa Carrillo is one of the highlights of Costa Rica's Pacific coast, and feels refreshingly low-key. (Jonathan Gregson)

Tucked into the narrow Central American isthmus, Costa Rica may look small, but it conceals mysterious cloud forests, quiet beaches and extraordinary wildlife.

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Puerto Viejo de Talamanca: Best for food
In a bright kitchen, Elena Brown flits between a pan, where strips of yellow plantain hiss, and a potful of bubbling sauce. Elena has spent much of her life practising the traditional cooking of the Caribbean. ‘My mum had 14 children,’ she says with a toothy grin. ‘So everybody had to take a turn.’ These days she cooks at her namesake restaurant in the seaside village of Puerto Viejo de Talamanca.
For generations, Costa Rica’s Caribbean coast has brought together English speaking settlers from Jamaica, indigenous groups from the Talamanca Mountains and Spanish creoles living in the country since Christopher Columbus dropped anchor nearby in 1502. By the 20th century, the area had developed a distinct culture: locals spoke Mekatelyu, a rapid-fire Creole dialect based on West Indian English, Calypso musicians penned ballads about banana companies and malevolent women, and the fusion of people and ingredients turned food into one of the area’s enduring symbols.
The cuisine mixes island spice with Central American heartiness. One of the most beloved dishes is the steamy soup rondón, an exquisite coconut milk concoction studded with cassava, green bananas, fish and shrimp, and laced with blazing Scotch bonnet chilli peppers.
Puerto Viejo has grown into a popular seaside destination, but the area holds on to its roots. Radio sets play contemporary calypso songs, local smallholders farm cacao (cocoa) and – on a wooden terrace fringed with hot-pink tropical flowers – Elena serves up the recipes her mother taught her, plus a few others picked up along the way. ‘I love it when people eat my food,’ she says. ‘When people come, they aren’t just eating. They’re tasting the Caribbean.’
Further information
Artisanal fishing trips and tours to cacao farms are available from ateccr.org (half-day tours from £25).
Where to eat
Grab a table at Restaurante Elena Brown, on the eastern road out of town (dishes from £5).
Where to stay
Located four miles east of Puerto Viejo in Playa Chiquita, intimate Namuwoki Lodge has eight whitewashed bungalows accented in tropical hardwoods and cosy outdoor sitting areas. There is also a swimming pool for lounging by, a whirlpool bath and a restaurant that serves excellent grilled seafood (from £75).
La Fortuna: Best for adventure
For centuries, no-one in La Fortuna knew that a volcano loomed over their town. Its last major eruption occurred around 1400, and it had then fallen into a long, deep sleep. By the time the 20th century arrived, the farmers who lived in the area referred to the towering peak simply as Cerro Arenal – Arenal Hill. The misnomer didn’t become apparent until the 1960s, when the ‘hill’ suddenly rumbled into life. Its name has since been upgraded to Volcán Arenal.
Sergio Rodríguez, a naturalist guide who grew up in the region and has lived in La Fortuna for the past 12 years, has studied the volcano and climbed it hundreds of times. The eruptions, he says, can feel otherworldly – ‘like an earthquake followed by the sound of someone turning on the world’s biggest transformer’. As he makes his way through the scrub, he tells Arenal’s story. La Fortuna sits in the foothills of the Tilarán Mountains and, for much of the 20th century, it was known as a cattle-ranching hub. Yet when Arenal began putting on its regular pyrotechnic displays in the late 1960s, the area drew the attention of international volcanologists as well as thrill-seeking travellers.

Hong Kong’s dragon boat festivities

The modern-day tradition of racing dragon boats celebrates the Tuen Ng Festival. (Hong Kong Tourism Board)

During Hong Kong's annual Dragon Boat Festival, which falls on 23 June this year, the city is split into two camps: the competitors and the spectators. The former wield paddles and propel elaborately-decorated vessels through churning water toward the finish line -- all to the beat of a drum at the boat’s bow. The latter, meanwhile, simply crack open a few beers, eat glutinous rice dumplings and rowdily cheer on those racing in the oppressive summer heat.

The modern-day tradition of racing dragon boats during the Tuen Ng Festival (as it is known in Chinese) revolves around the myth of ancient poet Qu Yuan, who was on the outs with the royals in the 4th Century. After being banished from the kingdom, he committed suicide in a nearby river. Devotees are said to have rowed boats along that river, banging drums to keep spirits and fish from defiling his body. They also dropped packets of rice tightly wrapped in leaves for nourishment in the afterlife (or, some versions claim, to distract the fish), which is why Hongkongers' consumption of these rice dumplings, called zong, peaks this time of year.
Festivities take place in waterways across the territory, with each taking on its own distinct character. The ones in Stanley, on the south side of Hong Kong Island, are where corporate teams chock-full of expats scull against a backdrop of yachts and junk boats loaded with onlookers. Just to the west, in Aberdeen's small harbour, 65 local teams compete. Out in the far-flung seaside town of Tai O, fishermen engage in an elaborate religious ritual before the races even begin. They manoeuvre their boats to four village temples to pick up statues of deities, which are paraded through the area to placate the spirits that inhabit the waters.
Though many consider the Tuen Ng Festival the pinnacle of dragon boat competitions, there are other events throughout the year. Notably, the annual Hong Kong Dragon Boat Carnival in July in iconic Victoria Harbour, combines races of professional international teams and local paddlers with a San Miguel beer festival and other entertainment.
Hana R Alberts is the Hong Kong Localite for BBC Travel 

40 beautiful places to visit in China

What's beyond that Great Wall? Plenty, as it turns out

By Tracy You, Raemin Zhang 18 June, 2012

Almost all of us are familiar with China's great man-made attractions.
The Forbidden City in Beijing. The Terracotta Warriors of Xi'an. Shanghai's skyscraper forest in Pudong.
For a country of its massive size and varied geography, however, it's surprising how relatively few people outside China appreciate the extent of the country's other attractions, many of them natural wonders to rival any in the world.
Is it possible to limit a list of China's superlative attractions to a mere 40?
Not really.
But a photo memory card goes only so far.
And, as this gallery illustrates, it's impossible to stop clicking once you get a camera in front of some of China's most beautiful places to visit.
The list is in alphabetical order.
Have you come across a spot even more stunning on your China travels? Let us know where it is and what it's like in the comments section below.

1. Anhui: Hongcun Ancient Village (安徽宏村)

Reliable muse for generations of artists.

The 900-year-old village of Hongcun has long drawn in-the-know Chinese visitors, who love its tranquil vibe and distinctive architecture.
The striking Huangshan mountain backdrop (see No. 2) doesn't hurt, either.
Its classic structures, Moon Lake and picturesque locals have been an inspiration for art students for decades.
Walking the narrow lanes paved with quartzite and seeing farmers working in rice fields, with the reflection of ancient houses in the lake, should provide enough material to get you started on your own visual masterpiece.
Admission: RMB 104 (US$16)

Hongcun Village is roughly 70 kilometers northwest of the city of Huangshan in Anhui Province. Major cities connected to Huangshan Airport by direct flights include Beijing, Shanghai, Guangzhou and Xi'an.

2. Anhui: Mount Huangshan (安徽黄山)

Mountain romance.

A UNESCO World Heritage Site set amidst “the loveliest mountains of China,” Mount Huangshan, aka Mount Yellow, is a once-in-a-lifetime trek for many Chinese. The 1,863-meter mountain is renowned for its oddly shaped pines, spectacular rock formations, hot springs and seas of misty and melancholy clouds.
A trip here provides a mountain of feeling.
Admission fee: RMB 230 between March 1-November 30, RMB 150 between December 1-February 28,
Major cities connected to Huangshan Airport by direct flights include Beijing, Shanghai, Guangzhou and Xi'an.

3. Fujian: Mount Wuyi (福建武夷山)

Confucian beauty.

A major landmark in southeast China and a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Mount Wuyi was the setting for the development and spread of neo-Confucianism, influential in East Asia since the 11th century. Bamboo raft drifting in the Nine Bend River (lower gorge) is a popular activity among visitors.
The two-hour, eight-kilometer trips provide grand views of Mount Wuyi. It's the best way to take in the serene beauty of the smooth peaks and clear water.
Admission: RMB 140 for Mount Wuyi park, RMB 100 for bamboo raft drifting.
Mount Wuyi is about 350 kilometers northwest of Fuzhou, the provincial capital of Fujian. Major cities connected to Fuzhou Airport by direct flights include Shanghai, Beijing, Guangzhou and Xi'an.

4. Fujian: Xiapu Mudflat (福建霞浦)

As beautiful as a water-and-ink painting. That's no coincidence.

Yes, a humble mudflat is a favorite destination of Chinese photographers. A small region along the southeast China coastline, Xiapu nevertheless has the largest mudflat in the country, encompassing 40 square kilometers and more than 400 kilometers of coastline.
Along its tiger-striped beaches, bamboo structures and poles, buoys and fishing vessels provide human counterpoints to the area's natural beauty.
Admission fee: Free
The nearest hub of Xiapu Mudflat is Fuzhou, provincial capital of Fujian. It's about 175 kilometers away.
Major cities connected to Fuzhou Airport by direct flights include Beijing, Shanghai, Guangzhou and Xi’an.

5. Gansu: Echoing Sand Mountain and Crescent Lake, Dunhuang (甘肃省敦煌市鸣沙山和月牙泉)

Gobi adventure.

Nope, this isn't a mirage -- it’s a real scene found in the vast Gobi desert in northwest China.
Echoing Sand Mountain is a series of dunes surrounding Crescent Lake. Named for its distinctive shape and aural characteristics, its echoes can be heard as the wind blows over the dunes.
Visitors ride camels up the dunes, which rise to 250 meters.
With gardens blooming on its banks, Crescent Lake offers a lovely visual counterpoint to all that sand.
Admission: RMB 120 during peak season (May 1-October 31) and RMB 60 in low season.
Echoing Sand Mountain and Crescent Lake is six kilometers south of Dunhuang.
China Southern operates a daily return flight between Xi'an Xianyang Airport and Dunhuang Airport. Air China flies between Beijing and Dunhuang once a day.

6. Guangdong: Fortress Towers, Kaiping (广东开平雕楼)

Many overseas Chinese are originally from Kaiping. Why leave such beauty?

Erected mostly in the early 20th century, the fortress towers at Kaiping were built by famously outbound Kaipingers, who brought home the many architectural styles they saw abroad, including Islamic, Roman and even ancient Greek.
The towers were built as a display of wealth, and as a practical way of protecting locals from war and theft.
Approximately 1,800 fortress towers still stand amid Kaiping’s vast rice fields.
Kaiping is located 130 kilometers southwest of Guangzhou, the provincial capital of Guangdong. 
Regular buses are available between Kaiping Bus Terminal and various long-distance bus terminals in Guangzhou. Direct buses and ferries are available between Kaiping and Hong Kong.

7. Guangxi: Yangshuo (广西阳朔)

Village life is art.

When the Chinese long for views of the nation’s most scenic hills and rivers, they book a bamboo-boat cruise in Yangshuo.
The riverside town in southern China is most famous for its karst hills and traditional fishing-village lifestyle.
Downtown is touristy.
Visitors can rent bikes and head to the countryside to find a more calming scene: bamboo boats chugging along the river, fishermen setting out with cormorants, farmers toiling in fields with lush peaks soaring high above.
Most travelers reach Yangshuo from Guilin. Buses bound for Yangshuo leave every 15 minutes from Guilin Bus Station on Zhongshan Lu and Guilin South Railway Station. The journey takes around 90 minutes and the fare is about RMB 15 per person. 

8. Guizhou: Huangguoshu Waterfall (贵州黄果树瀑布)

Not just big, it's ultra-accessible.

The highest waterfall in Asia, majestic Huangguoshu "Yellow Fruit Tree" Waterfall plunges a dramatic 77.8 meters across a 101-meter-wide span. It's one of a handful of mammoth waterfalls in the world that's accessible for viewing from almost any angle -- from above, below, front, back, left or right. 
The best visiting season is June to August, when the water reaches a peak flow of 700 cubic meters per second.
Admission fee: RMB 180 between March 1-October 31; RMB 160 between Novermber 1-February 28
The nearest traffic hub to Huangguoshu Waterfall is Huangguoshu Airport. It's about six kilometers away. Major cities connected to Huangguoshu by direct flights include Beijing and Guangzhou.

9. Hainan: Guanyin Statue (海南南山海上观音像)

Pilgrimage to China’s bikini-clad island.

Look beyond the beaches of Sanya to find the world’s largest Guanyin statue, erected near Nanshan, China’s southernmost mountain.
The story goes that the three-sided statue faces mainland China, Taiwan and the rest of the South China Sea -- meaning that the bodhisattva blesses not only China, but the whole world.
At 108 meters tall, the figure was raised and enshrined in 2005 and is one of the tallest statues on the planet.
Admission: RMB 150
The Guanyin Statue is located within Hainan’s Nanshan Culture Tourism District, which is some 40 kilometers from downtown Sanya. Shuttle buses are available between Yalong Bay and Nanshan.

10. Hainan: Yalong Bay (海南省亚龙湾)

Heaven for beach and water sports lovers.

Hainan delivers the best tropical setting in China. Yalong Bay is the pinnacle of the resort getaway.
The 7.5-kilometer crescent beach is the most popular and developed stretch of Hainan’s southern coastline.
It provides all the quintessential experiences of a Southeast Asian holiday, with as many luxury hotels as palm trees -- more than 20 international luxury hotels line the beach of Yalong Bay.
The beach is also a haven for water sports warriors, including surfers who sometimes ride uncrowded waves all day.
If you visit in July, August, October or during Spring Festival, you'll be surrounded by Chinese families, mostly sporting old-school swimsuits.
Yalong Bay is 28 kilometers southeast of Sanya. Sanya Airport operates flights to all major Chinese cities, as well as nine international cities including Singapore, Hong Kong, Tokyo and Seoul.
More on CNNGo: 15 places to see in China that aren't the Great Wall

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The place where dead airplanes come back to life

Disused airplanes go to Tarmac Aerosave's hanger facility in southern France to be dismantled and stored.

Aircraft skeletons are picked apart and the salvaged parts are repackaged and repurposed.

Tarmac's primary business is aircraft storage but the company has stripped 12 planes completely since its inception three years ago.

A close-up view of an airplane wing being dismantled. Valuable parts can be sold on by plane owners at a profit while any remaining scrap metal is broken down for resale by Tarmac.

Up to 87% of an airplane can be salvaged, says Sebastien Medan, Tarmac's head of dismantling.

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STORY HIGHLIGHTS

• Tarmac Aerosave recycles disused aircraft at its plant in southern France
• Airbus says around 9,000 planes will be retired or withdrawn from service over the next 20 years
• Tarmac believes recycling old aircraft could save airlines considerable amounts of money

Tarbes, France (CNN) -- Wings clipped, noses cut off, stripped down to the bone, these old birds will never fly again. But the giant hangar at the home of Tarmac Aerosave is not a graveyard for planes -- it's a recycling yard.

Tarmac Aerosave has been dismantling disused aircraft at its base in "Aerospace Valley" -- a cluster of French flight engineering firms near the town of Tarbes in southern France -- since it was formed in 2009. Although the company's primary business remains aircraft storage, it has stripped 12 planes completely since its inception

"We receive an old aircraft ... and completion of this work (is) when all the material can be reused," says Sebastien Medan, head of dismantling at the French aerospace company

Where planes go to die

The art of recycling airplanes

The parts salvaged during this process are repackaged and repurposed. Landing gear and wing flaps are shipped out to be reinstalled in new planes while cockpits are reborn as flight simulators. All parts that are saved can be sold on by the aircraft owners. The remaining waste and scrap metal, meanwhile, is broken down for resale by Tarmac.

"The percentage of the aircraft to be recycled is around 87% (and) actually we expect to rise that to 90%" says Medan.

See also: In-flight phone calls to become standard

With Tarmac's parent company, Airbus, predicting that more than 9,000 aircraft will be retired or withdrawn from service over the next 20 years, there's a clear need for aging planes to be disposed of in an environmentally friendly manner.

All the materials we take out from each aircraft could be used in other industry especially aeronautical industry
Sebastian Medan, TARMAC

By relieving retired models of their most valuable assets, Tarmac also believes it can transform airplane recycling into a lucrative business and one that makes sense for airlines looking to dispose of old models.

The cost of storing a disused aircraft can be as much as €20,000 ($25,000) per month. This compares to a one-off cost of between €100,000 and €150,000 (between $125,000 and $185,000) to tear down a plane, stripping it of items that can be reused or sold on at a profit.

A conductor who loves the sound of fighter jets: These people really love to fly

"All the materials we take out from each aircraft could be used in other industry, especially aeronautical industry," says Medan.

While the efficiency savings this process brings are obvious, Tarmac also believes that dismantling old planes will allow engineers to better design more efficient aircraft in the future. Understanding how parts erode, decay or develop over time will allow them to transfer that knowledge into new designs.

"We are collecting in-service aircraft components to asses the remaining characteristics and capability in terms of stress and fatigue," says Olivier Malavallon, project director of business development and change at Airbus.

"It's crucial in terms of experienced feedback in better designing the aircraft and providing to the designer some guidance -- how best we can assemble things together where things are fitting better."

As it stands, Tarmac's site in southern France can cater for 20 aircraft at a time, the company says. Across the border in northern Spain, however, a new site is being prepared by one of the company's subsidiaries. It will be able to store 200 planes at a time, and strip down between 30 and 40 models a year.

According to Malavallon this expansion will enable Tarmac to prepare for the coming influx of retiring planes. It will also ensure aircraft are disposed of in a way that is efficient and makes the most of valuable materials.

Instead of "going from cradle to grave," he says, airplanes will go from "cradle to cradle."

You told us: Top 5 spots for plane geeks

Ayesha Durgahee is the resident reporter on CNN's Business Traveller. Follow Ayesha on Twitter at @AyeshaCNN.

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